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Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, nestled high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.